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From Anonymous on August 29
Q: Is birch borer infestation present in this area?

A1: Bronze Birch bores are present here. They attack most stressed birch trees, even River Birch.  To prevent bronze birch bores, water the tree more that what is accustomed too and as added protection, apply a systemic insecticide with Imydaclyprid, Merit or a Bayer product with it in it.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.

A2: Yes Birch Borers are here. They can be identified by the hole they leave in the trunk. You will notice holes that resemble the letter”D” lying flat side down. you may also see sawdust coming from the holes. They can be treated with systemics, that is insecticides that can be injected into the vascular system of the tree.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.

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From Jackie on August 28
Q: I have this tree in my back yard, it has gone through hell and back in 5 short years.  First it fell over because the landscaper put too many drips around it 6/ 2 gal.  I staked it down took out all the drips and deep root watered it.  It grew strong and deep rooted.  Then the wind ripped it in half, I duct taped it back together and cut off all the torn branches and put that black tree paint on the exposed parts were I cut the bad limbs.  That has been a year ago and it came back and bloomed, but the trunk did not grow back together, so I put screws through the trunk to hold it together, and removed the duct tape.  My question, do you think it will survive with the screws in the trunk?  It still has all of its leaves and it has been 3 weeks since I did this.  I live in the northwest about 5500 elevation.

A: The tree may “survive,” but the real question is, will it ever be strong enough to resist weather damage and pests? Because it takes so long to develop a viable, mature tree, keeping a Charlie Brown tree on life support can be counter-productive. Starting over will likely give you a good tree faster than trying to revive a tree that’s been dealing with some serious setback all of its short life.

The fact that the tree broke off in a wind storm may be an indication that it is the wrong species for that site. Starting over would give you an opportunity to reconsider the kind of tree to plant. A good source is the TMWA Landscape Guide, which details trees and shrubs that thrive in the Truckee Meadows.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Darin Blue, a certified arborist with Los Verdes Arborists

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From Judit on June 16
Q: We have a majestic, healthy looking silver birch that we love. Is it necessary to deep root feed it to keep it healthy? If so, how and what do we do?

A: Deep root feeding is a must in our soils. We are in clay in most areas and the water does not get down to where roots are. As a result, they come up close to the surface and cause problems with grass, concrete and other improvements. The Birches are trees that are native to river banks are require even more water to stay healthy. The Ross Root Feeder is a great deep watering tool. You can pick up the fertilizer tablets that go with it and use it three times a year: spring, summer and fall. Use the fertilizer tablets for deciduous trees on the Birch. They also have tablets for evergreen and fruit trees -  all your trees will benefit from root feeding.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.

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From MaryAnn on June 2

Q: Last fall I planted many, many trees and shrubs. I tried to water as much as I could before the first snow. They seemed to survive the winter snow, but not that big wind storm that we had a month or so ago. I haven’t been able to get out and water as much as I should have. I have several arborvitaes with needles/leaves that are dried out. If the wood of the trees are still green, will they come back? What can I do to help?

A: This is winter burn, which many of the conifers suffered from this year. It is not usually deadly but does need some attention. The best treatment would be to do some additional watering and perhaps a nitrogen based fertilizer to get some green going. Any slow-release complete fertilizer would do, similar to what you would use on your lawn in spring. Look for the numbers on the bag 20-10-10, and be sure to not get anything with weed killer in it.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.

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From BW in Reno on May 23
Q: Would the recent freezes affect newly planted pines, or if the trees show signs of a downfall is it regular shock from transplanting? Also, should we water newly planted trees when it is 50 degrees out during the day even though there are slightly freezing temperatures at night? It’s hard to follow the “Peavine Rule” when temperatures are nearly 80 degrees in mid May!

A: At first it does seem like transplant shock … however, if the tree had been really soaked it could freeze a little … but should not be a problem. Yes, start watering now … as we all know, things will turn hot quickly and having the soil moist to start with prevents summer die-back.

This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.

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From Billy in Reno on May 21
Q: My entire front yard–and I live on a corner–was sheet mulched with whole tree woodchips a year ago. The soil is like the Central Valley. The worms fall through my fingers when I pick up a handful. Can woodchips go right up to the trunk or do they need to clear a 3-6″ diameter?

A: You should keep the mulch back about six inches. Excess moisture can build up and cause crown rot. Also invasive insects can attack from the mulch.

This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.

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From Marlene in Reno on May 10
Q: HELP! I have a question about my Japanese Maple Tree. Just noticed it has a sheen and sticky surface all over it and on the ground as well. Tiny black bugs on the leaves and flying around. The photos are from the leaf top and bottom. I am worried that this is a pest or disease and do not want to loose the tree. Any advice that the experts can give me?

A: Those are aphids…there are several products out there that will combat them. The most common and effective application types of Aphid pesticide are insect growth regulators (IGRs). Insecticidial soaps, oils ang pyretherins, Azatin, Enstar 2, Neemasad and Preclude are all effective. Next year…spray the tree with dish soap and water early in the season to prevent thier arrival.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.

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From BW in Red Rock on May 7
Q: I live out on 10 acres in Red Rock, a newer property. We have planted 10 trees in four years. Seven have lived, three died. I have concluded the reasons the three died. Planted to near sage concentrations and over watering.

The soil here does not drain well! It is an ancient, dry lake bed and pure silt with most likely a high pH and low nutrients. There are such heavy beds of hardpan that feel like concrete to break through. A nursery told me to watch the watering. I did and have been all through that. My process for watering is simple: Very little and not very often.

The trees that died: two Arborvitae, one Blue Spruce. Those that are still living: five Colorado Blue Spruce, two Austrian Pines. The Spruces are green, not dying, planted well as outlined on your checklists and within a 150-foot drip system. They stay green, and grew quite well last year. However, in 2 years the Spruces have achieved very little height if any at all. They seemed to have just grown out and gotten fuller within a certain height and diameter. The Austrian Pines are doing the best and achieving height and are green and healthy looking all year round! Nothing special was done with them and they are flourishing under the same conditions as the Spruces.

I am assuming two things: The roots are hitting hardpan and are not able to penetrate. The soil is nutrient lacking and not draining well at all. We are about to plant four Alberta Spruce trees that are taller and established! Our first pruning of the Spruces happened for the first time this year.

Any hints? I know something works because I have seen every kind of tree out here 15 feet tall and doing well. I have seen Blue Spruce, Austrians, Aspens, Poplar, Dogwood and others. I would experiment with other trees that I heard do really well, but the wife wants ALL pines and I have stopped trying fight her!

Thanks for any suggestions you can give!

A1: Have the pH of the soil tested as well as the salt concentration, electrical conductivity and a sodium SAR (Sodium Adsorption rate  or ESP, or exchangeable sodium percentage).  We can conclude that the soil is low in nutrients.  If the soil does not drain well, it may be a sodium issue. If that’s the case add organic material to all new plantings. Plant high and add 25 or 35 percent organic material to the backfill soil and mix thoroughly.  Blue Spruce need fast well drained soil and acid soil as well. They grow as native on the slopes of the Colorado Rockies.  When digging a planting hole, make it five times as wide as the rootball,  in this case, due to poor drainage, plant high. The top of the rootball should be about one inch above the soil grade or. Then cover the rootball with a thin layer of soil of then apply about three inches of mulch on top of the rootball of the tree, keeping a clearing of about two to three inches around the base of the tree.  If the spruce tress continue to decline, choose species that can tolerate high salts in the that soil and poor drainage.  Check the neighborhood to see what’s growing. I would stay away from dwarf Albertas unless they are protected and have good drainage.  Also I don’t think the roots hit the hard pan. Ornamental plants or potted plant roots grow laterally not vertically.  I suggest a Western Juniper or Arizona cypress.  If you need additional info, call the Cooperative Extension office at 784-4848.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.

A2: Most definitely the soils here are not desirable.  That is why mulch is a much needed commodity when planting any vegetation.  Also, digging the planting pit correctly or creating a berm will help with some of the drainage issues.  As for the nutrient content, once again our soil has none, or very little and usually competes with the soil and the pH.  Using a root feeder would be the best solution, with the Ross system.  There are specific formulations of fertilizer for each specific group of trees and shrubs that you can purchase to use in your Ross Feeder.

This Ask an Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Pamela Bedard, a certified arborist with City of Reno.

A3: If you are going all conifer, native species will be the easiest to maintain. Maybe Jeffrey or Washoe Pine, more likely Pinon Pine and native Juniper. Wood Chip mulch on the surface will improve nutrient cycling and slow down water evaporation from the ground. Mycorrhizal Fertilizer can improve root efficiency, making a big difference given poor soils. Small trees that grow up on the site responding to the gusty winds in the region will have a better chance than large trees grown in a nursery. Watering very little and not very often is probably allowing the soil to get dry enough to separate from the roots. Every time that occurs the fine roots become parched and root uptake is compromised.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Darin Blue, a certified arborist with Los Verdes Arborists

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From Billy in Reno on May 5

Q: I soaked and gently worked with the root ball of my plane tree for a long time to get the roots untangled and spread out in its giant hole of a new home. It has a really great shape and I did some minor pruning and it’s perfect. Should I really prune it back more?

A: Perfect is good enough. The last thing a newly transplanted tree needs is to be pruned severely. Better to let it settle in for 4-5 years.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Darin Blue, a certified arborist with Los Verdes Arborists

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From Alison in Reno on May 3
Q: We have a curling cedar whose southern exposed branches have turned grey/brown, while the north sides remain the green. Is it an issue of not enough water, too much sun (although you wouldn’t know it from this spring)? We planted in the fall. The branches are still pliable, just discolored. We also have a spruce pine whose top has just peeled away needles, so it looks rather like a Charlie brown tree. The rest of the branches down the body of the tree are fine.

What’s wrong with my trees?

A: This is winter burn. A situation in which leaves of Cedars are exposed to very cold winds and does not mean the tree is dead. That is why the leaves are still pliable. However, do check the drip system for proper watering. You should have four two-gallon per hour emitters located at the drip line of the tree. Set the timer to run on your watering days, but on a different watering cycle than turf. Be sure that drip runs for at least an hour a day -  if you find there is runoff due to clay or compacted soils, water 30 minutes in the morning and 30 minutes in the afternoon or evening. Please refer to our watering page for more details. If a large section of the Spruce top is dead it will not come back, nor will it ever look right. You may want to remove it and replace it and start over.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.

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From George in Southwest Reno on Apr. 30
Q: Day before yesterday’s 70 – 90 mph winds partially uprooted one of my 30 – 40 pine trees. While it currently is on the ground, a major portion of the root ball and the side that is down on the ground remains in tack and many of the smaller roots remain covered by dirt. I have it currently covered with tarp and dirt in hopes that it might be saved. Do you think we can save and upright it?

A1: If you have been keeping that rootball moist and covered, I would say that the tree has a chance. You will need to have it pulled to the upright and staked in at least two points with strong anchoring. When you do get it back up place some good topsoil (triple mix would be best) over the roots and water it in. As you water you will have to add soil to fill the voids between roots. The objective is to have no air pockets around the roots. The just keep it wet. Do not fertilize for at least two months, as any earlier will worsen the shock it will already endure. Steady and reliable water will be the key for that tree. Four two-gallon emitters three feet from the trunk, set for one hour three times a week would be right. If you intend on hiring the work out be sure and seek out an International Society of Arboriculture certified arborist. You can find them at the ISA website.
This Ask An Arborist question is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.

A2: If you have to remove the tree with the amount of root damage, I would suggest removing the tree and replant with a different species.  It looks like the tree might have blown over because its roots were shallow – spruce trees tend to be shallow rooted. I suggest planting a deeper root evergreen tree and use a natural mulch such as bark chips. I recommend applying a 3” layer of bark chips or shredded bark on top of the soil as your weed barrier. Keep a 3” to 6” clearing around the base of the tree to avoid the unwanted pest, meadow voles from chewing at the base of a young tree.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Bill Carlos, a certified arborist with Washoe County Regional Parks & Open Space.

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From Dick and Maralyn in Incline Village on Apr. 19
Q: We have several large Ponderosa/Jeffrey pines that have dropped large volumes of green needles throughout the winter. What is wrong?

A: It depends on where the needles are dropping from. If they are coming from the interior, it’s normal. If it’s coming from the ends of branches, it should be addressed. If you see holes in the trunk with sap oozing out, the tree has borers. This can be treated with Merit – either with a soil drench or a certified arborist can do injections.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.

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From Steve in Wisconsin on Mar. 22
Q: I have a pin oak tree that was planted in the fall of 2008.  Last year the tree had poor vigor except, about 8 inches from the bottom, it shot out new branches that grew about a foot.  My problem is the main stem seems so weak, it always wants to grow “bent over.”  The tree is about 6 ft with about 3/4” caliper.  At about 3 foot, the tree leans to the North at about a 75 degree angle.  I have been fighting this problem all last year and now coming through the winter I have this.  This winter I did prune off the lower branches except 1 that was growing upright.  My question is should I just give up on the main stem and cut it back to the lower branch and let that one become the leader?

A: The problem with raising a new tree from a sprout off an old trunk is the way in which it is attached to the trunk. These new sprouts arise from buds located just under the bark of the original tree. A normal branch is attached deep within the tree allowing it to build width at the base as it grows, giving it the strength to handle the weight. These epicormic sprouts will break when they get large. Although I hate telling people to remove trees, this is probably your best bet as your tree will never be “right.” Pin Oak is a great tree for your area and I would try these again. Click here for more planting instructions.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.

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From Tony in Sparks on Mar. 9
Q: Is it possible to plant and have a fig tree in this area?

A: Unfortunately, we are in a zone 5-6 with low temperatures at zero to -15 degrees. Fig trees are zone 10 trees that prefer lows of about 35 degrees. It would just get too cold here for it. However, you could try a dwarf variety; keep it in a pot so you can move it inside when it gets too cold.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.

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From Caitlin in Sparks on Mar. 8
Q: My council have employed a single external arborist to assess a row of figs which in the wild would be less than halfway through their lifespan. He used QTRA. It seems all risk assessment methods are open to argument. Do you have a favourite one?

A: The best resource for hazard tree evaluation is at the ISA Web site. You can download the hazard tree evaluation form from there as well as order the book “recognizing tree hazards” by Clark and Matheney. In any case be sure to use an ISA Certified Arborist, that has some experience at evaluations.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.

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From Laurel in Hidden Vally on Mar. 7
Q: We have a 25-year-old blue spruce next to our front lawn. This winter I’ve noticed a lot of branch tips on the ground around it, something I’ve never noticed much of before. At first I thought it was from a wind storm, but there are lot of them and there seem to be more every time I look. Should I worry? What will the branches that have lost their tips do?

A: A certain amount of shedding is to be expected this time of year, particularly with the amount of water we have received this year. However, a tree of that age may be in need of additional fertilization. I would recommend using the Ross Root Feeder with the fertilizer for evergreen trees in spring, summer and fall. Watch the branches that the tips have fallen off of for dead needles, this may be a sign of other problems. Also, check the trunk for holes and running sap, a sign of borers.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.

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From Pearl in Stead on Mar. 4
Q: I love the silk tree, A. julibrissin. Will it grow here well? We had a Wallus that died.  We have a deck in our backyard (west) and it has a hole in it for the tree. The deck is about 1 1/2 feet off the ground,  so there is air circulation. About two feet away, across a gravel walkway are rose bushes on a sprinkler system. Will any of this be bad for that type of tree? I like the dappled shade. Any other kind if the silk tree is not good here? We have a lot of wind during the summer. We live on a hill in Stead.

A: The Silk tree works in zones 6b through 9b (click here for more information on hardy zones). It can only tolerate temperatures down to 0 degrees Fahrenheit. As you know, we get colder than that very often during the winter. A tree that is very similar that does work here is called “tree of heaven,” or Ailanthus altissima. It originates in China as well and has similar leaves, but it is tolerant of any soil, and will work in part shade to full sun. In your high wind conditions you may have to stake it for a season. It does not like to be too wet, but if the rose bushes are doing well on the existing system it should do well. I would call ahead to the local nurseries for availablity, you may have to have it ordered, but most nurseries will be happy to do that.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.

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From Yvette in southwest Reno on Feb. 9
Q: The roots of my large oak tree are exposed, like the ground is shrinking around it. Is this harmful? What should I do?

A: You can raise the soil, but be sure not to put soil too high up the trunk. Install six two-gallon per hour emitters along the dripline and this will help keep the soil from receding. Soil should be no higher than where the roots and trunk meet. You should also be sure to deep root feed large trees like this, to ensure water is getting to the roots.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.

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From Anonymous in southwest Reno on Feb. 3
Q: My cherry tree seems sick. It has dead branches with sap leaking from them. Is it infested? Can it be saved?

A: That sounds like it may be infested with aphids, which is common in cherry trees. Deep root feeding would be very helpful in the spring, summer and fall. Dead branches should be removed in the spring. Click here for more information on pruning. Spray the remaining branches with a dormant oil to prevent aphid infestation in the future.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.

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From Sally in Lemon Valley on Jan. 20:
Q: My tree’s roots are protruding through the ground.  Is this bad for the tree and can I stop it?

A: It can be bad for your trees because the roots are now exposed to the sun and scald where they normally wouldn’t be.  To help redirect your roots back into the ground, use a root feeder in the spring, summer and fall.  In addition to getting nutrients directly to the roots, this can help to aerate and break up the soil, creating an easier path downward for the tree’s roots.
This Ask An Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.

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From Milan and Monica in Reno on Jan. 2:
Q: We’d like to plant our Christmas tree in our yard, to replace a sickly pine with dying roots.  How do we do that?

A: Similar to transplanting a tree, when planting a container tree like Christmas trees, be sure to plant it so that soil level on root ball is level with the turf.  Break up the surrounding soil to promote root growth and fill the hole with water to eliminate air pockets.  For more information on planting, check out our Tree Topic paper.
This Ask an Arborist answer is sponsored by Dale Carlon Consulting, LLC.

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From Billy in Reno on Nov. 22:
Q: My favorite tree in the world is a Chinese elm. I see a few mature ones around town like over on Plumb, but not many. Are they good to grow here?

A: The Chinese elm isn’t the best tree for the area, as this tree does better in warmer climates where it tends to keep it leaves all season. We have just a few Chinese elms around, which is often confused with the Siberian elm. This species however, is slated for tree list removal and shouldn’t be planted here due to elm leaf beetle problems and super invasive root systems. American elm is prohibited from planting in the public right-of-way for the same reasons as Siberian Elm.  The closest alternative on our tree list is Common hackberry. It has a similar vase shape, but does not get as tall as elms in our area. Hackberry is also very drought tolerant.

This Ask an Arborist answer is sponsored by:
Steve Churchillo, a certified arborist with City of Reno.

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